Easy Guide to Ball Joint Replacement

In motor vehicles, ball-in-socket joints degrade in performance just like their human counterparts. Note that dirt and lack of lubrication in the interior of your car's moving parts will prompt the demise of your car as a whole. Here is an easy guide to joint replacement.

Ball joints are the fundamental connectors between the axle assembly and the steering linkage. Usual use and abuse of the vehicle will wear down the ball joints immediately. If you are a do-it-yourself buff, you'll be delighted to know that you can perform the replacement task successfully with due diligence. Remember that replacing original parts and equipment of joints calls for patience and attentiveness.

It's easier to do the replacement if your car is a typical front-wheel-drive, which has single joint per slide. Older vehicle models and trucks frequently have both lower and upper joints on each side, thus a hydraulic press is necessary to accommodate the upper joints.

In any form of car component replacement, it's best to purchase name-brand parts. Since there are many manufacturers, choose parts that are manufactured by a reputable company.

To diagnose the health of your car's joints, you should study the inspection tips available online. If you detect any slop, immediately replace the joint. You should release the swaybar endlink if necessary. Disconnect the old joint's cotter pin as well as castellated nut. Then, with the use of a pickle fork or prybar, separate the ball joint and reinsert the stud placed in the knuckle.

While many shops make use of air chisel for joint replacement, you can utilize a drill instead. You should check your service manual to learn about the right sizes for drilling out ball joint rivets without denting the control arm. Get the ball joint by hauling the control arm down for clearance. With a rubber boot, grease fitting, castellated nut, and cotter pin, you can then install the new ball point.

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Sportsstuff U Slalom 2 (53-1965)

Shop online today at www.sportsstuff.com Look out the Doables are here! Learn to control your every move with the amazing new VEER tow system! Lean left or right to Slalom from side to side across the wake with these new Skill Tubes! You control it. Features * VEER Towing System for Slaloming from Side to Side Across the Wake (Patent Pending) * Tiger Tooth Spinning/ Steering Fins * Heavy-Gauge PVC Bladder * Heavy-Duty Full Nylon Cover with Zipper * High Visibility Custom Graphics * Aluminum Quick Connect Tow Point * Double Webbing Foam Handles with Knuckle Guards * Exclusive Patented Speed Safety Valve for fast inflation and deflation

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Life's a Journey Not a Destination - Enjoy Your Commute

I was driving on the highway the other day and a sign said, "Enjoy Your Commute". I thought to myself, "Thank-you, I am", and not just the road I was driving on, but the road of life.

Sure, there are still moments or days where I feel like I've hit a pothole, so to speak, where I wasn't able to steer away from that one. Some are a little bigger than others, in fact, a few may even seem like the Grand Canyon, but the difference is I now remember that the road of life is under construction as well as paved with gold.

It wasn't always that way though. There were many years where I felt I was always taking detours, or stuck in the traffic of negative thoughts, or feeling the road rage inside myself or the receiver of someone else's, or my internal GPS system had completely shut down and I was lost, or questioning if the passengers in my life received their licenses from a Cracker Jack Box. Then I questioned my own and realized perhaps I also received mine from there.

You see, life is an ongoing journey, not a destination, and how much or little you enjoy the commute is really up to you.

Think of your life like a highway. Sometimes you can set the cruise control and motor right along and other times you are stuck in a traffic jam, or having to take the next exit, or there's an unexpected delay and you are stuck, or the weather is a little tricky and your knuckles are a little white as you grip the steering wheel with all your might.

You might even be like the driver in who's tooting his horn, or yelling at other drivers, or telling them how they should drive, or not letting them in, or cutting them off all together.

Perhaps you want to be like Mario Andretti on the race track and speed through to the finish line.

You can't control the road conditions, or the events that occur in your life, but you can steer the way you encounter and move through them.
You can slow down, take a look around, and open yourself up to the miracles and mysteries that life has to offer you.
You can choose to see the negatives or the positives.
You can enjoy the simplest of pleasures throughout the day, or none at all.
You can be thankful for what you have or bemoan what you don't have.
You can reach out or go it alone.
You can believe or give up.
You can embrace or brace yourself.
You can find a different route or stay on the one you are on.
You can choose to stay stuck or move through what's occurring.
You can be the light or the darkness.
You can be of peace or war.
You can be victorious in your life; or the victim of life or the victor over life, the choice is yours.

It's up to you whether your journey is about the destination, or the enjoyment of your commute.

Yes, it would be nice to get up and never endure a road block, to know exactly where you are going, or what the future holds for you, but if that was the case you would miss all the wonder, adventures, excitement, joys and sorrows along the way.

These are the very things which provide you with the dreams, tools, skills, and experience to build other roadways.

Remember, the journey you're on, we are all on together, and its roads are under construction.

How can you enjoy more of your commute?

Use the insight technique to assist you in gaining insights when you hit those potholes that can make your journey more fun and enjoyable.

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Chrysler 300c front suspension popping/clunking noise

My Chrysler 2005 300c suspension is making popping/clunking noises on the drivers side when making slow turns. The noise in the vid is being amplified with Steelman wireless Chassis Ears. In this vid a transmitter is hooked to the lower control arm. I have since replaced the sway bar endlinks, so they are not the cause of the noise. I don't think the noise is from the inner or outer tie rod ends, steering rack, upper control arm, knuckle/ball joints, or brakes, since the noise is less noticeable when the transmitters are connected to these locations. Tension struts were recently replaced, so they shouldn't be the problem. But the noise is heard when the transmitters are located to every suspension component (except the steering rack), so it is difficult to determine the exact cause of the noise.

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Doing Some Work On The Cavalier

It gets a new knuckle and wheel bearing to replace the bent one.

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dropping 993 bearings into uprights

dropping cold bearings into a pair of front porsche 993 RS uprights after having heated them in the oven, 30 mins at 200 degrees C

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How to Sail a Boat Better - Use the Secret of Course Averaging For Easier Steering

How many times have you tried to steer an accurate magnetic compass course in a small cruising sailboat, only to be pushed or pulled off course time and again? On reaches, you have a lot more weather helm. It seems just when you get steady on course, a gust of wind or playful wave pushes the boat off course again.

Solve this problem with the secret of course averaging. This method allows the boat to wander off course at specific intervals of time. It removes the fatigue of white-knuckle steering and gives you more accuracy too. You will stay on course line like a locomotive glued to a railroad track! Follow these three simple steps:

1. Determine a convenient time interval

To make averaging work, you need to time each "wandering" interval. Any interval will do the trick, but it's easier to pick even units of 10--such as 10 minutes, 20 minutes, or 30 minutes.

2. Wander between 0 degree and 10 degrees to one side

Pick one side of the course line to start wandering. Let's say we decide to wander on the left side. Glance at your watch and then steer between 0 to 10 degrees to the left of the course line. Watch your time like a hawk! You want to change course as soon as your time interval runs out.

3. Wander to the other side of the course line

Change course to the opposite side of the course line. Glance at your watch again. In our example, we change course to the right and wander 0 to 10 degrees to the right of the course line. We will do this for exactly 10 minutes because that's how long we wandered on the other side of the course.

Example:
It's a choppy day with winds at 15 knots. You are beam reaching on a course of 270 degrees. You will use course averaging and decide on a time interval of 20 minutes. You will start wandering to the right of your course.

Glance at your time. Steer between 270 degrees and 280 degrees. As soon as 20 minutes passes, change course to the left. Glance at your watch again. Now, steer between 270 degrees and 260 degrees for exactly 20 minutes. Change course back to the right when your time runs out. Continue this sequence until you reach the end of your course.

********************

Use the secret of course averaging when steering conditions get tough. You and your sailing crew will be rewarded with better steering accuracy, less fatigue, and a much more enjoyable time at the helm.

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Rhino crash rollover flip jump

$ 360 in damage, cracked steering knuckle, rotor, roll cadge bar, and bent diff brackets happy to get it on video hell yea yamaha

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Cimarron Jeep and 4x4 Club first run of 09

The CJ 4x4 had an impromptu run down the Arkansas River trail on 1-3-09 just to get out in the cold.... Filmed from the vantage point of the drivers side steering knuckle...

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10.5 LM main at Newreds hobbies

Some of the 10.5 latemodel main from 04/24/10 at the awesome Newreds hobbies indoor dirt oval track facility. Look at me getting a wheel knocked off at the 30 second mark, Yikes! I thought I had tangled with another car until I viewed this video and then I realized I wrecked myself and actually caused the hit that broke my right front axle clean off. That's a 3/16ths inch aluminum axle and it snapped clean of at the steering knuckle, Whaaacccckkk! Oh well I was getting my Arrrrrse handed to me that day anyway. I'll be back another day to try again. Makes me think of a song, You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel. I think that's how it goes???? :-)

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How to Install a Motorcycle Alarm the Right Way

This article is written for beginners with little electrical experience; however, some knowledge of electricity and mechanics are assumed. This information is provided by West Coast Cycle free of charge and on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty to the products being installed. It is your responsibility to insure proper installation. West Coast Cycle assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer.

We think you've made a good choice in deciding to use an alarm system to protect your motorcycle, after all, in 2005 over 70,000 motorcycles were stolen. Now the question is: "How in the world am I going to install this - there are so many wires." What seems like a hard task is actually not too bad; however, you need to have a least some mechanical ability. You will need to know how to test the polarity of a wire using a digital multi-meter. So if you don't have a clue as to what a multi-meter is, save yourself the headache and take it to a motorcycle shop. Lastly, you will need basic tools to remove some side panels and covers to access the motorcycles wiring.

Gathering Information and Reference Material.

Information is the backbone of your soon to be successful installation. You should gather documents with vehicle specific wiring colors, locations and polarities. These charts are available in a multitude of places, generally free of charge. You can locate this information in the bike's shop manual, at the dealership of the motorcycle, or possibly online.

Planning the Alarm Install.

Your plan will be the difference between a finished product and a job left for next weekend. A few minutes of planning and prepping will yield at least an hour and a half less install time. It's not fun, but it needs to be done! Begin by studying your motorcycle's specific diagram side by side with your bike alarm installation diagram. Identify which features you plan to use on the alarm, not all features are necessary. (e.g., engine immobilizer, remote starting)

Preparing the Wiring.

Before installing, be sure to disconnect the (-) negative terminal of the motorcycle's battery. This will eliminate the possibility of accidental electrical shorts and/or unnecessary battery drain.

Once you identify which features you will install, eliminate the unused wires, if any, to prevent clutter. It is common practice to twist the wires of a same plug together then secure them to each other with black electrical tape. Do not wrap the entire bundle, as different wires go to different locations. Once you finish wrapping all the harnesses, tape them to each other to create one large pigtail containing all of the used wires. This keeps the wires together, secure and free from frays and obstruction. You will now want to identify the locations of the wires which you will connect to on your bike. Here is a hint: the majority of your wires will run from the ignition of your motorcycle back toward the center of motorcycle where the fuse box is usually located. The easiest way to locate these wires is to open the ignition key switch, and test the wires at this point to verify it is the correct wire. You won't want to tap into the wire right next to the ignition. Rather, trace the wire back toward the fuse box or center of the bike where it is closer to the mounting location of the alarm system. This way you won't have to run wires as far. The further you have to run wires the greater chance for something to go wrong.

Execution: Removing the Panels.

The right tools are the difference between bloody knuckles or no sweat. We suggest you seriously consider the specialty items, as they will be handy in other wiring projects in your future. You will want to begin be removing the panels where your wires are located. Be sure to notate where all clips and screws go, there is nothing worse than leftovers - if you know what we mean.

Wiring the Alarm Unit.

Once the panels are removed, you will want to locate a good spot to mount the main alarm module. The harder to see, the better. This will make it much more difficult for a would-be-thief. You will generally tie strap or adhere (if adhesive pad is provided) the module to a support brace or flat surface. Be sure to mount the unit in a location that is not too close to the engine. As a general rule we suggest at least 12 inches from the engine. Also, if an adhesive strip is provided with your alarm system, be sure to prep the surface with rubbing alcohol or degreaser prior to mounting. One of the best locations to mount the alarm module is beneath the seat of the motorcycle. Another possible location is within the spare tool compartment, if you don't mind giving this space up.

Next, run the LED display light, siren, and external antenna, if equipped. Be sure to mount your siren in an obscure location also. At this time, everything which will be plugged into the unit should be. Begin by wiring any necessary relays first, if any are necessary. Most motorcycle alarm systems do not require relays; however, remote starting applications will often require relays on motorcycles with electronic fuel ignition. If you don't have a remote start feature chances are you won't need any relays. Getting these relays out of the way now will save you from a rat's nest of wires. After the relays are wired, begin connecting your wires to the proper locations. You may want to read West Coast Cycle's article on testing wire polarity before making any connections; you can find it at http://www.wcc-tech.com. You should always test wires before you make a connection. Connecting the wires can be done in a number of fashions. You can splice the wires and tape them using electrical tape. You can solder then tape or heat shrink. You can use t-tap connectors, although we personally do not recommend them for long-term use. T-tap connectors work well for preliminary tests of wires, but once you know the alarm system is working correctly, go back and solder the connections. It is completely your preference, but we suggest soldering connections followed by heat shrinking. Just be sure the connection is solid and free of any tension.

Identifying the correct wires.

If you don't know the correct wire color to look for, here is how you can determine the correct wire. We also have an article on the technical support page of our website that offers detailed information on using a multi-meter to locate the correct wires.

Most motorcycle alarm systems have 5 basic alarm system wires:

ACC / Interface Wire: The ACC wire of the Installation Harness connects to the IGN / ACC wire in the bike's ignition key switch harness. The wire you need to find in the bike's harness should be +12v only when the ignition key is switched to the ON position; and if the ignition key is switched off, this wire should not show any voltage. Two tips: This wire runs from the ignition to the fuse box. If the bike already has a factory immobilizer, you can use the ACC alarm wire to shut off the fuel pump or cut the starter line.

Engine Immobilizer Wires: This common alarm system feature always uses two wires. This feature is like connecting a second kill switch to your motorcycle which is housed in the alarm system module and can be shut of via remote. There are three ways to use this feature; we'll address the easiest way here. If you want more information on alternative ways to install this feature see the FAQ section of our website. You need to cut the side of the Kill Switch wire that leads back to the main power of the bike. You then connect one end of the cut wire to one of the two immobilizer wires and the other end of the cut wire to the other immobilizer wire. Hint: it does not mater which end is connect to the immobilizer wires, the feature will work either way.

Power and Ground Wires: We saved the easiest wires for last; we thought you'd appreciate that after all your hard work. All alarm systems have a power and ground wire. It is recommended that you connect the power and ground wires directly to the battery terminals. You may need to purchase wrap-around clamps, terminal taps or extensions for making an easy connection to each battery post. Failure to use the proper connecting method is surefire way to have problems with your alarm system down the road.

Congratulations, your bike is now safer!

Your installation should now be complete. Before putting the panels back on the motorcycle, open your alarm manual. There should be a section which displays the functions of your alarm system; this is great for testing your installation. Go through this process thoroughly. You will want to address any issues immediately. If you are having problems, refer to troubleshooting the troubleshooting section of your alarm system and check all your connections. If not, congratulations!

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Learning to Wakeboard (A Beginners Guide to Getting Started)

Getting Up & Out Of The Water!

The very first stage once your in the water with the tow rope uncoiled and the boat ready to go is to focus on getting the wakeboard up and out of the water to a point where it is planing across the surface. It took me several days before I could stop the wakeboard from ploughing down into the water at which point holding the tow rope was impossible!

1. First you need to hold the tow rope with both hands with your knuckles point upwards, as if you were holding a car steering wheel.

2. Now you need to try and bring your needs towards your chest a little so that your legs are bent and your toes are popping out of the water.

3. The next and most vital step is to hold your arms out straight in front of you with very little bend at the elbow and place your arms either side of the leg that you prefer to lead with. (A simple test to find your lead leg is to have someone push you from behind, whilst on dry land, and see which leg you put forward to stop yourself.)

4. Once you are setup as described in steps 1 - 3 you must focus on allowing the boat to push the board towards your body. Imagine trying to scrunch up into a ball so that your knees are almost touching your chest and your heels are almost touching your bottom!

5. Signal to the boat driver that you are ready and call for a slow acceleration to start off with.

6. As you feel the boat start to pull you let your body become compact with your knees pushing towards your chest, the board will start to plane out of the water.

7. As the board starts to come out of the water stay low and let the force of the boat bring you up. Your lead foot will naturally start to turn towards the boat. This happens really easily if you kept your arms either side of your lead leg.

8. Once you are up and out of the water start to stand up but keep your weight on your back foot, try to keep 60% on your back foot and 40% on your lead foot.

9. Initially it will feel very strange and you will probably need to focus on getting the board pointed nose first at the boat. It is all too easy to leave the board slightly at an angle which will actually take you towards the wake. You should avoid crossing the wake until you are comfortable riding in a straight line!

10. Now that you are out of the water and riding on your board you can practice moving left and right by leaning slightly in the direction you wish to travel and turning the board with your front foot.

Good luck getting started, once you have succeeded I guarantee you will be hooked on wakeboarding for life!

Summary

Arms straight and either side of lead foot
Legs bent and knees close to chest
Slow accelerations to begin with
Once up point the nose of the board at the boat

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What Are Tie-Rod Ends...Do I Need Them?

What are tie rod ends? Your life depends on them!

All vehicles, no matter what make or model have tie rod ends.

On vehicles with Rack and Pinion Steering there are only two, but on others, there are four.

The tie rod end attaches to the steering knuckle on each front wheel on Rack and Pinion Steering.

On non-R&P steering, there is one attached to the steering knuckle on each front wheel and one attached to the long bar that controls both wheels for steering, called a Tie Rod Drag Link.

This link is connected to the pitman arm coming from the steering gear-box and also connected to an idler arm for stability purposes.

The little tie rod ends on non R&P screw into a sleeve with both right-handed threads and left-handed threads.

When you have the toe-in set on your vehicle, the technician can loosen two bolts and nuts and twist this sleeve¡...this makes the tires go out or in.

It is very important to have these tie rod ends greased every time you have the oil and filter changed in the engine.

Why? Well, if you don't grease them then, when will you? :-)

The importance in greasing them is to keep them moving freely.

If they get dry they will wear out quickly.

If they wear out, they can come apart.

If they come apart, you won't be able to steer your vehicle. Not a good thing.

Now, grant you, on some of the newer vehicles the manufacturers decided to leave off the grease fittings.

These tie rods come pre-packed and will last a very long time.

But, you should have them 'checked ' at each oil change.

Some have a threaded hole for the grease fitting, but they have a small cap over them.

You can remove the cap and add a fitting so you can grease it.

Any time you replace a tie rod end, be sure to grease it, and the others if you can.

Take care of your vehicle so it will take care of you and your family!

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Sportsstuff Slalom Trolley (53-2180).flv

Get on board the latest Slalom Skill Tube from Sportsstuff that will keep you and your friends slaloming all day long. This new stream-lined DOABLE for 1-3 riders features the one-of-a-kind patented VEER Tow System and strategically located Tiger Tooth Fins to enable riders to slalom & drive this Trolley in various shoe-lace type moves. With a little team work, up to 3 friends can control their own ride by slaloming & steering wherever they want to go. The skill of Slaloming is achieved by simply leaning left or right away from the boat. As you gain balance and the ability to maneuver, the Slalom Trolley can VEER far outside the wake and then cut back in to jump it. Featuring a dragless nose design and open end cockpit style seating makes boarding fast and easy. Tons of Grab Handles with Knuckle Guards enable comfortable and precise steering & slaloming for all riders. Unlike most boring towables you just hold onto, this ultra-fast controllable Doable has been specially designed so multiple riders can slalom, jump, and do a combination of moves across the wake while the boat simply drives straight. Get on track with the Slalom Trolley and youre in control!

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i broke the steering knuckle need to fix!!!

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Why Fat People Fail in Internet Marketing?

No offense, please! I am not referring to the physical size of a person. But, what does this title have any association with your internet marketing business?

Well, let's digress a bit and talk about the physical term 'fat' before we steer back to internet marketing business. We see a lot of overweight people around us. What do you think is the main cause of the problem? It is due to improper diet and too much intake of calories which resulted in excess fat in their body.

Steering back to the route of internet marketing, what does being fat concern you as an internet marketer? Everything. Many people in the world of Internet Marketing are fat meaning they are loaded with too much knowledge on internet marketing. I am sure you read and the more you read, the more knowledge you will acquire. Well, that is good for you but....

What do you do after reading and acquiring all the knowledge from the book? That is the crux of the whole point. A lot of people have the knowledge but they never put their knowledge into good use. They simply shelf the knowledge aside draining it slowly from their mind as day passes by. Think about it for a moment. When you eat a lot and you are not doing any exercise to burn off the calories, what will happen? Get the idea!

Eating non stop without exercise causes obesity, just like acquiring knowledge on internet marketing but not applying what you have learned into your business serves no purpose at all. This is what happen to a lot of people. If you are buying everything in sight to convince yourself you are improving your knowledge, you will get fat. If you do not put that knowledge into practice, then you will never make a single cent from your internet marketing business.

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Carnage!

broke a steering knuckle

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DMCH Balljoint Castlenut

Showing movement of the castle nut on a DMCH balljoint. Later in the video, the lower nut is to simulate the steering knuckle being in place, and the second castle nut is tightened over it to see if there is still any play.

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cc01 aluminum steering knuckle/carrier mod

yea reacing ta03 knuckle set.

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5700kv HPI Wheely King. Beat it till it breaks

My slingshots come 2morrow but today was too nice so I thru the old sand paws (nubs) on and beat the shit out of it. Broke the steering knuckle. www.rccrawler.com

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Murphy's Law Motorsports green flag KOH 2010

Lucas Murphy of Murphy's Law Motorsports #816 taking the green flag for the start of the 2010 King of the Hammers race. Lucas started 85th, was as high as 11th or 12th position, and ended in 23rd position after having a steering knuckle failure.

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Kitamura 5-axis Test-3

Kitamura 5-axis Test-3

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Sportsstuff Wake Ryder (53-1680)

STAND UP DECK TUBE! Coming soon... Available spring of 2008 Conquer the wake with the all-new WAKE RYDER! This one of a kind tapered deck towable features multiple riding positions which allow you to sit, lay, or stand up like a skier! Heavy-duty steering leash, a multitude of exclusive sure grip handles, and a custom cockpit slotting system make sure that you can hang on while on the water! Get ready to ride with the all-new WAKE RYDER from SPORTSSTUFF! Features: High Visibility Custom Graphics Heavy-Duty Full Nylon Cover with Zipper Heavy-Gauge PVC Bladders Tapered Deck Tube Construction Heavy-Duty Steering Leash for Stand Up Skiing Custom Cockpit Slotting System For Rider Control Aluminum Quick Connect Tow System Custom Sure Grip Handles EVA Foam Knee and Knuckle Guards Patented Speed Safety Valve for Fast Inflation and Deflation Self Bailing Drain Vents Specifications: Inflated Length: 72in Inflated Width: 84in

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BIV test pavement

Checking front axle after D44 steering knuckle swap

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Finish the MR2's front steering knuckle modifications #192

I am now ready to finish the front MR2 steering knuckle modifications. I know I say I am adding a 1/8" piece of steel tubing but it is actually 1/4" thick. These half pieces of tubing will be used to prevent the reworked mounts from crushing due to the strut bolt. After everything is welded together I smoothed it off with some bondo and paint. They are now ready to be refit.

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Teaching Kids to Identify Their Emotions

We are all a whirlwind of emotions that seem to jockey for position. As we reach adulthood through the calendar years and gain experience that can't quite be measured in such terms, we learn to identify them. For kids it's harder to identify their emotions.

Teaching kids to identify their emotions before they succumb to reaction is the job of the parents and adults -teachers, guidance counselors- raising the kids. It is most important to imbue a sound foundation for identifying and correcting their emotions so that they mature into rational adults who can control the emotions of anger, jealousy, before mania prompts them to act in a way that will be detrimental to themselves or society.

Many adults react without thought and that stems from a childhood and adolescence when they weren't made privy to the ramifications and causes of such emotions without identification and the correct interpretation. Understanding why one feels enraged when the car in front of them cuts them off or they miss an exit on the freeway and find themselves treating their steering wheel as if it were a punching bag, may reduce stress if they can consider why such a mundane act triggered that reaction, before their knuckles start bleeding.

Teaching kids to identify their emotions is a fundamental part of being a parent or guardian. As much as it may appear that the words aren't sinking in, parents should recognize that although behavior and response may not at first indicate that the words or ideas are getting through, repetition and talking to them, asking them questions about how they feel and why they think they do, offering answers that they may not have the vocabulary to explain, is stored in their minds and will assert itself at the appropriate time in the future.

However, if adults do not have the education to teach kids to identify their emotions, perhaps the PTAs of school districts can offer seminars for the parents and guardians. Those parents and guardians who have access to the internet can educate themselves as to the best course of action for addressing the concerns for their children.

It's not enough to tell kids to stay in school and progress through the ranks to college and beyond. Educating kids that it is important to graduate high school and go to college to get a well paying job is no more important for their lives as is identifying emotions. "The real world" beyond education is littered with many situations where self-control and self-interpretation of emotions is crucial in social networks in the workplace and in their personal life, which impact and influence each other.

Perhaps the most important lessons in life have less to do with the outside world and how it rolls on its axis and more to do with understanding ourselves and our own reactions.

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How to Clean Your ABS Wheel Sensor

Does your ABS light come on consistently and you do not know what is wrong! Well, when you check your code, you may see that it says that your front wheel sensor is damaged. However, that is not always the case. A lot of times, your ABS wheel sensor is just fine; they just need to be cleaned. Of course, if you take it to a shop, they are going to tell you that you need a new one. So we are going to go over how you can clean your own ABS wheel sensor in your Toyota and save yourself a lot of money. After you clean it, if you are still having the problem, you will need a new one. However, most people have noted that nine times out of ten, this does indeed fix their problem.

First of all, before you get started, you are going to want to make sure you have everything that you need to perform the job. The only things that you are really going to need are a ratchet, jack, wheel lock and, of course, a rag or paper towel to clean it off with. After you have all of this stuff, you can feel free to get started. This should only take you an hour or two to do yourself.

Getting Started On Your Wheel Sensor

First, you have to choose which side you want to get started on. You can choose either the passenger side or the driver side; it does not really matter. However, whichever side you do choose, that is the side that you, of course, need to jack up first. Before you jack up the car, you need to turn the steering wheel to the opposite side that you are working on. For example, if you are working on the driver side, then you are going to want to turn the wheel to the passenger side. Also, when you get it jacked up. You should use a jack stand, not just the jack. You never know how long you will need to have this car jacked up, so you will want the jack stand.

After you turn the wheel and get everything all set up, you will notice that you should be able to locate the ABS wheel sensor very easily. It should be located directly mounted to the knuckle. To take this off, you are going to have to remove the two bolts that are holding them in place. In most Toyota cars, they are 10mm bolts. However, some of them can change from time to time. Overall, there will be about four bolts you have to take out. To do this, just follow the ABS sensor around so that you can remove all of the bolts. When you get the sensor off, you will notice that it is all covered in dirt. Take your rag or paper towel, and start whipping it off. As you do, you will notice that the very middle of it has a sliver strip that you could not see before. A lot of times, dirt blocks this and can cause problems, as you found out. After cleaning it, simply reverse the steps you did to reinstall it. Also, be sure to check both of the front ABS sensors. The one on both sides of the car!

Still Having Problems

Most of the time the procedure discussed above will fix any problem that you are having with your ABS sensor. If you have cleaned both of the front sensors and there are still problems, then you do have a damaged ABS sensor. At this point, you need to get new ones and replace them. If you want, you will be able to install them the same way you cleaned the other ones. However, instead of cleaning the old ones and putting them back on, you can simply put on the new ones. Overall, this is a one day job that can save you a ton of money. Most people do not notice how much money that they can save by doing this themselves until they actually do it!

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What Are Ball Joints? How Do They Work on My Car?

What is a Ball Joint?

A ball joint in simple terms is a bearing. This bearing allows movement on the X,Y,Z axis and reduces vibration in moving linkages. Ball joints in cars and trucks connect the upper control arm (UCA) to the steering knuckle. They have a taped rod that fits into the knuckle and are attached at the bottom with a castle nut. These nuts have cutouts that allow a cotter pin to be attached preventing the nut from spinning off.

What are Adjustable Ball Joints?

Due to normal wear and tear, and accident, potholes or even hitting a curb a cars alignment can be altered. If you ever have felt your car pulling to one side or the other, seen uneven or odd tire wear it's a good chance your car has an alignment issue.

If you have a clunking, or grinding noise when going over bumps or steering, it's a good change you have a joint issue.

Due to the ball joints location in the suspension system, it is the perfect place to change alignment angles like camber and caster. This is where adjustable ball joints come into play. These specialized parts feature a sliding section that allows a qualified technician to adjust alignment angles to correct a flaw in the vehicle, adjust for height change, and adjust for different tire configurations or even performance. These parts also let the tech adjust for caster, a steering angle which is critical when a car or truck has a height change.

How Do I Know If I Need New Ball Joints or an Alignment?

The first place to start is in the drivers seat! You know your car best. Do you find that the car is pulling to one side? Do you have feathering or cupping on your tires? Do you feel and hear a clunking noise when going over speed bumps? If you hear or see any of these symptoms, its best to head over to a trusted shop that can perform alignments. Then a technician can get the alignment readings for your vehicle and let you know if it's out of manufacturer specification. From there, an adjustable ball joint may be the solution to your issues.

Why Is Wheel Alignment Important To My Vehicle?

From the factory the vehicles manufacturer has taken into account the types of roads, driving and suspension within the vehicle. Each vehicle has different specs and even normal driving can cause serious and expensive problems. The problems can be as simple as your steering wheel not being centered, to more serious tire wear issues. These can be seen where the insides, or outsides of a tire are prematurely wearing, or where tires are wearing unevenly. A driver might also experience a "pulling" motion to one side or the other. These can be costly as a new set of tires for the average car now is about 400 dollars! Most alignments are under seventy dollars and can be completed by a reputable shop in under and hour. Check your local newspaper, yellow pages or mailers for specials.

How Much Do Adjustable Ball Joints Cost?

If you car does need ball joints, resist the urge to skimp. Ball joints are an integral part of the vehicles steering and suspension system and cutting corners could have consequences. Visit a reputable shop and make sure they are using a trusted brand.

Are Ball Joints Hard To Install?

This question really depends on the vehicle. Specialized tools are needed, along with an alignment to set the correct angles after installation. For these reasons its best to have a reputable shop install your new ball joints. Typical installation time is about 30 minutes per side. Do some research on your car and find out roughly how long it should take. Make sure your shop is quoting your the correct amount of labor time.

Where Can I Buy Adjustable Ball Joints?

Visit your local repair center and ask for a recommendation or preference for parts. Again, do your research, making a choice based only on money could lead to expensive repairs, loss of use or loss of control while your are driving down the road. Ask your friends, word of mouth is often the best way to determine a reputable repair facility

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Front steering knuckle under front wheel well of excursion

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Keeping Your Honda Together

It isn't for nothing that they call a fool a nut case. Imagine someone loafing down the street in an oblivious and careless manner as if he has lost his mind...

In the automotive technology, one way for a vehicle to hold itself together is through a durable tie rod. While the vehicle's steering system turns the wheels at the same rate and along the same plane in any condition, the tie rod secures the wheels firmly. It is the tie rod's function to prevent wandering and erratic steering.

The Honda tie rods can be connected to the vehicle in various ways, but it is advised that the strength of the connection should be at least equal to the strength of the rod. The tie rod ends may be threaded and fitted through drilled holes or shackles and retained securely by nuts. This is normally done on Honda cars that sport a conventional suspension system. In this case, the Honda tie rods connect the vehicle's center link to the steering knuckle, and re-circulate its ball steering gears to maintain fluidity of wheel motion. With MacPherson strut suspension and rack and pinion steering gears, the tie rods connect the end of the rack to the steering knuckle.

A Honda tie rod consists of an inner and an outer end. In principle, the Honda tie rods serve as conduit for the force from the steering center link or the rack gear to the steering knuckle, making the wheels turn. The outer end of the tie rod connects with an adjusting sleeve to allow the length of the tie rod be adjustable and suit the vehicle's requirement. This adjustment is used to set a vehicle's "toe," a critical alignment angle necessary for safe and comfortable riding.

You don't have to wait for any signs of erratic driving to know that your Honda?s tie rod has worn out. A worn tie rod end can be spotted by raising the suspension and shaking the front wheel back and forth. If there is any noticeable slackness, it means the tie rod ends are in bad condition and need replacement. Toe alignment must be reset once the new tie rods ends have been installed.

A worn out tie rod end can cause excessive tire wear. If tie rod replacement is necessary, a wheel alignment is also required because the tie rod replacement disturbs the toe setting. For best results, consult a qualified service technician for professional advice and service on your vehicle's suspension and steering systems.

The Honda tie rod may be simply a slender structural rod, but it is capable of mastering tensile loads at great speeds. The ratio of a tie rod's length to the radius of gyration of its cross section is usually very large, that it is prone to buckle down under the action of compressive forces. This is the reason why tie rods are model specific. Depending on the make of a Honda vehicle, tie rods sport a precision engineered finish aimed at servicing either speed or utility vehicles.

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Technical Car Advice - How to Change the Shock Absorbers on your Car

Worn or damaged shock absorbers are dangerous, have them checked on a regular basis. Worn shock absorbers allow the wheels to bounce and the body to roll and pitch. Tyre wear is accentuated due to the irregular battering encountered and braking efficiency is drastically reduced due to tyre-to-road contact being inadequate.

Here are a few important points to look for:

LOOSE OR DAMAGED MOUNTINGS

Check that the fastenings are firm, rubbers are not missing and that all bolts are tight. The shock absorber will not do its job unless it is fastened correctly.

LEAKING SHOCK ABSORBER

Look for tell-tale smears on the unit. Make sure they come from the body of the shock absorber and have just not been thrown up from the road, sump or transmission.

TEST METHOD

Where a test machine is not available an approximate idea of the condition of the shock absorbers can be obtained by the following method:

Bounce each corner of the car several times, releasing at the bottom of the stroke. Each corner should rebound to the top of its stroke and then settle in the normal position. If it bounces more than this, the shock absorber needs to be replaced.

If the car is difficult or impossible to bounce then the shock absorber has probably seized or has a bent piston rod perhaps due to a faulty mounting bracket. Always use the correct tools for any job, this can never be overstressed. Shock absorber fitment is no different. The following tools will make the fitment much easier:

· Spring Compressor

· Brake hose clamp

· Strut vise clamp

· Torque wrench There are three main types of shock absorbers, namely; the wet strut, the sealed strut and the telescopic.

Refer to the owner's manual for the type in your vehicle.

1. REPAIRING A WET STRUT

Here are the steps to the follow for wet strut repair.

Step 1. Loosen the piston rod nut and loosen o9ne turn using the correct size socket spanner. Loosen the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and make a match mark on one of the bolts and the rim before you remove the wheel. Use axle stands for safety.

Step 2. Clamp the coil spring with a spring compressor. Clamp the brake hose and remove the spring clip, disconnect the brake hose fittings, do not spill brake fluid, as it is corrosive.

Step 3. Disconnect the steering arm from the strut by removing the bolts. Remove the top three nuts and mark their position. Now, remove the strut together with the brake assembly, by lifting them out.

Step 4. Move to a workbench and remove the old internal parts. Clamp the strut in a strut clamp, compress the coil spring until it moves freely, and remove the piston rod nut. Note the position of the disassembled components so that they can be replaced in the correct sequence.

Step 5. Using the correct size spanner, remove the gland screw, take care as it may have to be re-used. The function of the gland screw is to centralise and clamp the internals. Remove the old internals and check for compatibility against the new insert.

Step 6. Drain the oil and discard it. Clean out the tube and threads with a solvent. Refill the tube with the necessary amount of oil, either SAE 30 or a suitable equivalent. The new insert can be slid into position.

Step 7. Carefully re-fit the gland screw and torque it to the correct specification. Ensure that the new insert is firmly positioned in the tube and make sure that the piston rod is centred with the correct amount of thread exposed. Prime the unit well to get the oil circulating.

Step 8. Align the spring with the seat hollows. Grease the bearings. Tighten the top nut just enough to secure the assembly. The unit can now be installed into the vehicle.

Step 9. Once securely positioned, the top three securing nuts should be tightened to the correct specification. Refit the steering arm to the strut knuckle and tighten the piston rod nut to correct specification. Replace the dust cap.

Step 10. Reconnect the brake hose fitting and replace the spring clip. Refit the wheel, make sure the match marks are aligned. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts.

Step 11. Bleed the brake line. It is recommended that the tyre pressure and wheel alignment be checked and the car test-driven. The wet strut repair is now complete.

REPLACING A SEALED STRUT

Here are the steps to follow for front sealed strut replacement:

Step 1. The procedure up to this stage is exactly the same for the sealed strut as it was for the wet so we can go straight onto disconnecting the brake hose. Clamp the hose, remove the spring clip and disconnect the brake hose.

Step 2. Note the position of the adjustment cam by making a notch on the lower bracket. Support the suspension with a jack to prevent it from dropping. Remove the two securing bolts. The sealed strut can now be removed from the steering knuckle and lifted out.

Step 3. On a workbench clamp the strut in a strut clamp and compress the coil spring until it moves freely. Remove the top nut and disassemble the components noting their position. Remove the old strut from the strut clamp and compare it with the new unit. Now place the new unit in the strut clamp.

Step 4. Ensure that the new unit is well primed and carefully replace the components in the correct sequence, checking them for wear or damage. Ensure that the coil spring is aligned with the lower seat hollow. The "out" marked stamped on the upper spring seat must face the outside of the vehicle. Tighten the top nut just enough to secure the assembled strut.

Step 5. Remove the spring compressor, the sealed strut is ready for refitting. Tighten the top three nuts to the correct specification. Refit the steering knuckle to the lower bracket. Apply oil to the bolt threads and insert them from the rear side. Align the adjustment cam on the steering knuckle with the notch previously marked on the lower bracket and tighten the nuts according to specification. Finally, torque the piston rod nut to the manufacturer's specification and replace the dust cap. Reconnect the brake hose fittings and replace the spring clip. Bleed the brake line and it is recommended that the tyre pressure and wheel alignment be checked and the car test-driven.

2. REPLACING A TELESCOPIC SHOCK ABSORBER

Fitting a telescopic shock absorber is a lot easier than fitting wet or sealed struts. However, there's always those small but important points to keep in mind. Don't forget to lubricate the bushings, use a rubber lubricant, not oil. For stud applications, the top mounting should be fully tightened only when the full weight of the car is on wheels.

And remember, don't overtighten the bushings. When fitting adjustable shock absorbers please follow adjustment instructions on package ( 4 settings). General notes: To remove nuts, use Loctite penetrating oil. Never burn them off. For stubborn nuts use a "nutcracker" and throughout the job, always use the correct tools. Before installing the new unit, make sure it's the correct one for the vehicle.

Prime the unit before fitting it and check all components before replacing them - if they're old and worn, they too should be replaced. Don't grip the piston rod with pliers or place the unit itself in a vise, you'll damage it.

I hope this articale helps if you need to change or repair the shock absorbers on your car yourself.

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Technical Car Advice - How to Change the Shock Absorbers on your Car

Worn or damaged shock absorbers are dangerous, have them checked on a regular basis. Worn shock absorbers allow the wheels to bounce and the body to roll and pitch. Tyre wear is accentuated due to the irregular battering encountered and braking efficiency is drastically reduced due to tyre-to-road contact being inadequate.

Here are a few important points to look for:

LOOSE OR DAMAGED MOUNTINGS

Check that the fastenings are firm, rubbers are not missing and that all bolts are tight. The shock absorber will not do its job unless it is fastened correctly.

LEAKING SHOCK ABSORBER

Look for tell-tale smears on the unit. Make sure they come from the body of the shock absorber and have just not been thrown up from the road, sump or transmission.

TEST METHOD

Where a test machine is not available an approximate idea of the condition of the shock absorbers can be obtained by the following method:

Bounce each corner of the car several times, releasing at the bottom of the stroke. Each corner should rebound to the top of its stroke and then settle in the normal position. If it bounces more than this, the shock absorber needs to be replaced.

If the car is difficult or impossible to bounce then the shock absorber has probably seized or has a bent piston rod perhaps due to a faulty mounting bracket. Always use the correct tools for any job, this can never be overstressed. Shock absorber fitment is no different. The following tools will make the fitment much easier:

· Spring Compressor

· Brake hose clamp

· Strut vise clamp

· Torque wrench There are three main types of shock absorbers, namely; the wet strut, the sealed strut and the telescopic.

Refer to the owner's manual for the type in your vehicle.

1. REPAIRING A WET STRUT

Here are the steps to the follow for wet strut repair.

Step 1. Loosen the piston rod nut and loosen o9ne turn using the correct size socket spanner. Loosen the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and make a match mark on one of the bolts and the rim before you remove the wheel. Use axle stands for safety.

Step 2. Clamp the coil spring with a spring compressor. Clamp the brake hose and remove the spring clip, disconnect the brake hose fittings, do not spill brake fluid, as it is corrosive.

Step 3. Disconnect the steering arm from the strut by removing the bolts. Remove the top three nuts and mark their position. Now, remove the strut together with the brake assembly, by lifting them out.

Step 4. Move to a workbench and remove the old internal parts. Clamp the strut in a strut clamp, compress the coil spring until it moves freely, and remove the piston rod nut. Note the position of the disassembled components so that they can be replaced in the correct sequence.

Step 5. Using the correct size spanner, remove the gland screw, take care as it may have to be re-used. The function of the gland screw is to centralise and clamp the internals. Remove the old internals and check for compatibility against the new insert.

Step 6. Drain the oil and discard it. Clean out the tube and threads with a solvent. Refill the tube with the necessary amount of oil, either SAE 30 or a suitable equivalent. The new insert can be slid into position.

Step 7. Carefully re-fit the gland screw and torque it to the correct specification. Ensure that the new insert is firmly positioned in the tube and make sure that the piston rod is centred with the correct amount of thread exposed. Prime the unit well to get the oil circulating.

Step 8. Align the spring with the seat hollows. Grease the bearings. Tighten the top nut just enough to secure the assembly. The unit can now be installed into the vehicle.

Step 9. Once securely positioned, the top three securing nuts should be tightened to the correct specification. Refit the steering arm to the strut knuckle and tighten the piston rod nut to correct specification. Replace the dust cap.

Step 10. Reconnect the brake hose fitting and replace the spring clip. Refit the wheel, make sure the match marks are aligned. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts.

Step 11. Bleed the brake line. It is recommended that the tyre pressure and wheel alignment be checked and the car test-driven. The wet strut repair is now complete.

REPLACING A SEALED STRUT

Here are the steps to follow for front sealed strut replacement:

Step 1. The procedure up to this stage is exactly the same for the sealed strut as it was for the wet so we can go straight onto disconnecting the brake hose. Clamp the hose, remove the spring clip and disconnect the brake hose.

Step 2. Note the position of the adjustment cam by making a notch on the lower bracket. Support the suspension with a jack to prevent it from dropping. Remove the two securing bolts. The sealed strut can now be removed from the steering knuckle and lifted out.

Step 3. On a workbench clamp the strut in a strut clamp and compress the coil spring until it moves freely. Remove the top nut and disassemble the components noting their position. Remove the old strut from the strut clamp and compare it with the new unit. Now place the new unit in the strut clamp.

Step 4. Ensure that the new unit is well primed and carefully replace the components in the correct sequence, checking them for wear or damage. Ensure that the coil spring is aligned with the lower seat hollow. The "out" marked stamped on the upper spring seat must face the outside of the vehicle. Tighten the top nut just enough to secure the assembled strut.

Step 5. Remove the spring compressor, the sealed strut is ready for refitting. Tighten the top three nuts to the correct specification. Refit the steering knuckle to the lower bracket. Apply oil to the bolt threads and insert them from the rear side. Align the adjustment cam on the steering knuckle with the notch previously marked on the lower bracket and tighten the nuts according to specification. Finally, torque the piston rod nut to the manufacturer's specification and replace the dust cap. Reconnect the brake hose fittings and replace the spring clip. Bleed the brake line and it is recommended that the tyre pressure and wheel alignment be checked and the car test-driven.

2. REPLACING A TELESCOPIC SHOCK ABSORBER

Fitting a telescopic shock absorber is a lot easier than fitting wet or sealed struts. However, there's always those small but important points to keep in mind. Don't forget to lubricate the bushings, use a rubber lubricant, not oil. For stud applications, the top mounting should be fully tightened only when the full weight of the car is on wheels.

And remember, don't overtighten the bushings. When fitting adjustable shock absorbers please follow adjustment instructions on package ( 4 settings). General notes: To remove nuts, use Loctite penetrating oil. Never burn them off. For stubborn nuts use a "nutcracker" and throughout the job, always use the correct tools. Before installing the new unit, make sure it's the correct one for the vehicle.

Prime the unit before fitting it and check all components before replacing them - if they're old and worn, they too should be replaced. Don't grip the piston rod with pliers or place the unit itself in a vise, you'll damage it.

I hope this articale helps if you need to change or repair the shock absorbers on your car yourself.

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