Some of the 10.5 latemodel main from 04/24/10 at the awesome Newreds hobbies indoor dirt oval track facility. Look at me getting a wheel knocked off at the 30 second mark, Yikes! I thought I had tangled with another car until I viewed this video and then I realized I wrecked myself and actually caused the hit that broke my right front axle clean off. That's a 3/16ths inch aluminum axle and it snapped clean of at the steering knuckle, Whaaacccckkk! Oh well I was getting my Arrrrrse handed to me that day anyway. I'll be back another day to try again. Makes me think of a song, You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel. I think that's how it goes???? :-)
Thursday, May 20, 2010
10.5 LM main at Newreds hobbies
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
How to Install a Motorcycle Alarm the Right Way
This article is written for beginners with little electrical experience; however, some knowledge of electricity and mechanics are assumed. This information is provided by West Coast Cycle free of charge and on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty to the products being installed. It is your responsibility to insure proper installation. West Coast Cycle assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer.
We think you've made a good choice in deciding to use an alarm system to protect your motorcycle, after all, in 2005 over 70,000 motorcycles were stolen. Now the question is: "How in the world am I going to install this - there are so many wires." What seems like a hard task is actually not too bad; however, you need to have a least some mechanical ability. You will need to know how to test the polarity of a wire using a digital multi-meter. So if you don't have a clue as to what a multi-meter is, save yourself the headache and take it to a motorcycle shop. Lastly, you will need basic tools to remove some side panels and covers to access the motorcycles wiring.
Gathering Information and Reference Material.
Information is the backbone of your soon to be successful installation. You should gather documents with vehicle specific wiring colors, locations and polarities. These charts are available in a multitude of places, generally free of charge. You can locate this information in the bike's shop manual, at the dealership of the motorcycle, or possibly online.
Planning the Alarm Install.
Your plan will be the difference between a finished product and a job left for next weekend. A few minutes of planning and prepping will yield at least an hour and a half less install time. It's not fun, but it needs to be done! Begin by studying your motorcycle's specific diagram side by side with your bike alarm installation diagram. Identify which features you plan to use on the alarm, not all features are necessary. (e.g., engine immobilizer, remote starting)
Preparing the Wiring.
Before installing, be sure to disconnect the (-) negative terminal of the motorcycle's battery. This will eliminate the possibility of accidental electrical shorts and/or unnecessary battery drain.
Once you identify which features you will install, eliminate the unused wires, if any, to prevent clutter. It is common practice to twist the wires of a same plug together then secure them to each other with black electrical tape. Do not wrap the entire bundle, as different wires go to different locations. Once you finish wrapping all the harnesses, tape them to each other to create one large pigtail containing all of the used wires. This keeps the wires together, secure and free from frays and obstruction. You will now want to identify the locations of the wires which you will connect to on your bike. Here is a hint: the majority of your wires will run from the ignition of your motorcycle back toward the center of motorcycle where the fuse box is usually located. The easiest way to locate these wires is to open the ignition key switch, and test the wires at this point to verify it is the correct wire. You won't want to tap into the wire right next to the ignition. Rather, trace the wire back toward the fuse box or center of the bike where it is closer to the mounting location of the alarm system. This way you won't have to run wires as far. The further you have to run wires the greater chance for something to go wrong.
Execution: Removing the Panels.
The right tools are the difference between bloody knuckles or no sweat. We suggest you seriously consider the specialty items, as they will be handy in other wiring projects in your future. You will want to begin be removing the panels where your wires are located. Be sure to notate where all clips and screws go, there is nothing worse than leftovers - if you know what we mean.
Wiring the Alarm Unit.
Once the panels are removed, you will want to locate a good spot to mount the main alarm module. The harder to see, the better. This will make it much more difficult for a would-be-thief. You will generally tie strap or adhere (if adhesive pad is provided) the module to a support brace or flat surface. Be sure to mount the unit in a location that is not too close to the engine. As a general rule we suggest at least 12 inches from the engine. Also, if an adhesive strip is provided with your alarm system, be sure to prep the surface with rubbing alcohol or degreaser prior to mounting. One of the best locations to mount the alarm module is beneath the seat of the motorcycle. Another possible location is within the spare tool compartment, if you don't mind giving this space up.
Next, run the LED display light, siren, and external antenna, if equipped. Be sure to mount your siren in an obscure location also. At this time, everything which will be plugged into the unit should be. Begin by wiring any necessary relays first, if any are necessary. Most motorcycle alarm systems do not require relays; however, remote starting applications will often require relays on motorcycles with electronic fuel ignition. If you don't have a remote start feature chances are you won't need any relays. Getting these relays out of the way now will save you from a rat's nest of wires. After the relays are wired, begin connecting your wires to the proper locations. You may want to read West Coast Cycle's article on testing wire polarity before making any connections; you can find it at http://www.wcc-tech.com. You should always test wires before you make a connection. Connecting the wires can be done in a number of fashions. You can splice the wires and tape them using electrical tape. You can solder then tape or heat shrink. You can use t-tap connectors, although we personally do not recommend them for long-term use. T-tap connectors work well for preliminary tests of wires, but once you know the alarm system is working correctly, go back and solder the connections. It is completely your preference, but we suggest soldering connections followed by heat shrinking. Just be sure the connection is solid and free of any tension.
Identifying the correct wires.
If you don't know the correct wire color to look for, here is how you can determine the correct wire. We also have an article on the technical support page of our website that offers detailed information on using a multi-meter to locate the correct wires.
Most motorcycle alarm systems have 5 basic alarm system wires:
ACC / Interface Wire: The ACC wire of the Installation Harness connects to the IGN / ACC wire in the bike's ignition key switch harness. The wire you need to find in the bike's harness should be +12v only when the ignition key is switched to the ON position; and if the ignition key is switched off, this wire should not show any voltage. Two tips: This wire runs from the ignition to the fuse box. If the bike already has a factory immobilizer, you can use the ACC alarm wire to shut off the fuel pump or cut the starter line.
Engine Immobilizer Wires: This common alarm system feature always uses two wires. This feature is like connecting a second kill switch to your motorcycle which is housed in the alarm system module and can be shut of via remote. There are three ways to use this feature; we'll address the easiest way here. If you want more information on alternative ways to install this feature see the FAQ section of our website. You need to cut the side of the Kill Switch wire that leads back to the main power of the bike. You then connect one end of the cut wire to one of the two immobilizer wires and the other end of the cut wire to the other immobilizer wire. Hint: it does not mater which end is connect to the immobilizer wires, the feature will work either way.
Power and Ground Wires: We saved the easiest wires for last; we thought you'd appreciate that after all your hard work. All alarm systems have a power and ground wire. It is recommended that you connect the power and ground wires directly to the battery terminals. You may need to purchase wrap-around clamps, terminal taps or extensions for making an easy connection to each battery post. Failure to use the proper connecting method is surefire way to have problems with your alarm system down the road.
Congratulations, your bike is now safer!
Your installation should now be complete. Before putting the panels back on the motorcycle, open your alarm manual. There should be a section which displays the functions of your alarm system; this is great for testing your installation. Go through this process thoroughly. You will want to address any issues immediately. If you are having problems, refer to troubleshooting the troubleshooting section of your alarm system and check all your connections. If not, congratulations!
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Learning to Wakeboard (A Beginners Guide to Getting Started)
Getting Up & Out Of The Water!
The very first stage once your in the water with the tow rope uncoiled and the boat ready to go is to focus on getting the wakeboard up and out of the water to a point where it is planing across the surface. It took me several days before I could stop the wakeboard from ploughing down into the water at which point holding the tow rope was impossible!
1. First you need to hold the tow rope with both hands with your knuckles point upwards, as if you were holding a car steering wheel.
2. Now you need to try and bring your needs towards your chest a little so that your legs are bent and your toes are popping out of the water.
3. The next and most vital step is to hold your arms out straight in front of you with very little bend at the elbow and place your arms either side of the leg that you prefer to lead with. (A simple test to find your lead leg is to have someone push you from behind, whilst on dry land, and see which leg you put forward to stop yourself.)
4. Once you are setup as described in steps 1 - 3 you must focus on allowing the boat to push the board towards your body. Imagine trying to scrunch up into a ball so that your knees are almost touching your chest and your heels are almost touching your bottom!
5. Signal to the boat driver that you are ready and call for a slow acceleration to start off with.
6. As you feel the boat start to pull you let your body become compact with your knees pushing towards your chest, the board will start to plane out of the water.
7. As the board starts to come out of the water stay low and let the force of the boat bring you up. Your lead foot will naturally start to turn towards the boat. This happens really easily if you kept your arms either side of your lead leg.
8. Once you are up and out of the water start to stand up but keep your weight on your back foot, try to keep 60% on your back foot and 40% on your lead foot.
9. Initially it will feel very strange and you will probably need to focus on getting the board pointed nose first at the boat. It is all too easy to leave the board slightly at an angle which will actually take you towards the wake. You should avoid crossing the wake until you are comfortable riding in a straight line!
10. Now that you are out of the water and riding on your board you can practice moving left and right by leaning slightly in the direction you wish to travel and turning the board with your front foot.
Good luck getting started, once you have succeeded I guarantee you will be hooked on wakeboarding for life!
Summary
Arms straight and either side of lead footLegs bent and knees close to chest
Slow accelerations to begin with
Once up point the nose of the board at the boat
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
What Are Tie-Rod Ends...Do I Need Them?
What are tie rod ends? Your life depends on them!
All vehicles, no matter what make or model have tie rod ends.
On vehicles with Rack and Pinion Steering there are only two, but on others, there are four.
The tie rod end attaches to the steering knuckle on each front wheel on Rack and Pinion Steering.
On non-R&P steering, there is one attached to the steering knuckle on each front wheel and one attached to the long bar that controls both wheels for steering, called a Tie Rod Drag Link.
This link is connected to the pitman arm coming from the steering gear-box and also connected to an idler arm for stability purposes.
The little tie rod ends on non R&P screw into a sleeve with both right-handed threads and left-handed threads.
When you have the toe-in set on your vehicle, the technician can loosen two bolts and nuts and twist this sleeve¡...this makes the tires go out or in.
It is very important to have these tie rod ends greased every time you have the oil and filter changed in the engine.
Why? Well, if you don't grease them then, when will you? :-)
The importance in greasing them is to keep them moving freely.
If they get dry they will wear out quickly.
If they wear out, they can come apart.
If they come apart, you won't be able to steer your vehicle. Not a good thing.
Now, grant you, on some of the newer vehicles the manufacturers decided to leave off the grease fittings.
These tie rods come pre-packed and will last a very long time.
But, you should have them 'checked ' at each oil change.
Some have a threaded hole for the grease fitting, but they have a small cap over them.
You can remove the cap and add a fitting so you can grease it.
Any time you replace a tie rod end, be sure to grease it, and the others if you can.
Take care of your vehicle so it will take care of you and your family!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Sportsstuff Slalom Trolley (53-2180).flv
Get on board the latest Slalom Skill Tube from Sportsstuff that will keep you and your friends slaloming all day long. This new stream-lined DOABLE for 1-3 riders features the one-of-a-kind patented VEER Tow System and strategically located Tiger Tooth Fins to enable riders to slalom & drive this Trolley in various shoe-lace type moves. With a little team work, up to 3 friends can control their own ride by slaloming & steering wherever they want to go. The skill of Slaloming is achieved by simply leaning left or right away from the boat. As you gain balance and the ability to maneuver, the Slalom Trolley can VEER far outside the wake and then cut back in to jump it. Featuring a dragless nose design and open end cockpit style seating makes boarding fast and easy. Tons of Grab Handles with Knuckle Guards enable comfortable and precise steering & slaloming for all riders. Unlike most boring towables you just hold onto, this ultra-fast controllable Doable has been specially designed so multiple riders can slalom, jump, and do a combination of moves across the wake while the boat simply drives straight. Get on track with the Slalom Trolley and youre in control!
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Why Fat People Fail in Internet Marketing?
No offense, please! I am not referring to the physical size of a person. But, what does this title have any association with your internet marketing business?
Well, let's digress a bit and talk about the physical term 'fat' before we steer back to internet marketing business. We see a lot of overweight people around us. What do you think is the main cause of the problem? It is due to improper diet and too much intake of calories which resulted in excess fat in their body.
Steering back to the route of internet marketing, what does being fat concern you as an internet marketer? Everything. Many people in the world of Internet Marketing are fat meaning they are loaded with too much knowledge on internet marketing. I am sure you read and the more you read, the more knowledge you will acquire. Well, that is good for you but....
What do you do after reading and acquiring all the knowledge from the book? That is the crux of the whole point. A lot of people have the knowledge but they never put their knowledge into good use. They simply shelf the knowledge aside draining it slowly from their mind as day passes by. Think about it for a moment. When you eat a lot and you are not doing any exercise to burn off the calories, what will happen? Get the idea!
Eating non stop without exercise causes obesity, just like acquiring knowledge on internet marketing but not applying what you have learned into your business serves no purpose at all. This is what happen to a lot of people. If you are buying everything in sight to convince yourself you are improving your knowledge, you will get fat. If you do not put that knowledge into practice, then you will never make a single cent from your internet marketing business.
Carnage!
broke a steering knuckle
motion activated sprinkler peanut butter jelly time Personal Trimmer
Monday, May 3, 2010
DMCH Balljoint Castlenut
Showing movement of the castle nut on a DMCH balljoint. Later in the video, the lower nut is to simulate the steering knuckle being in place, and the second castle nut is tightened over it to see if there is still any play.
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